3 Days in Copenhagen
I’ve had a vision of what Denmark would be like; Beautifully designed, functional, purposeful and with without hesitation it delivered on expectation.
With a long history of birthing design visionaries Denmark has an aesthetic I've fallen in love with over the past ten years. It has an amazing warmth while remaining effortlessly cool. The aesthetic and design leadership was only minimally overshadowed by the amazing food scene. Top chefs experimenting with traditional Danish cuisine, pushing expectation of herring and endless possibilities for the use of dill, a personal favourite, mark Copenhagen as a long weekend trip not to be missed.
STAY
We stayed at Axel Guldsmeden. With a superb location, just two blocks from the main train station, it's an easy hop directly from the airport. Guldsmeden is a group with hotels all over Europe and they know how to make you feel at home and cozy. The best feature of the hotel is the bike rentals, closely followed by a charming and delicious restaurant and lovely European spa in the basement should you need some relaxation time.
EAT
Granola; Paté Paté; Kødbyens Fiskebar; Høst
DRINK
Day 1
Sculpture park + Shopping
Grab your bikes and head out for an quick breakfast and coffee at Granola. The orange + ginger juice shot is fresh pressed and worth the trip alone. Sit at the exquisite original art deco bar and enjoy the beautiful well curated locals who are just starting their fashionable day.
Directly across from Granola is Dora gifting boutique. Find local Danish designers plus an arrangement of European makers. The shop is very well curated including vintage finds you wish you had space to take home.
After your done wondering the street and drooling over the adjacent florist it's time to get back in the saddle for a longer bike ride up to Superkilen Park. It truly an amazing outdoor art and sculpture exhibit that also functions as a park and just oozes Northern European street cool.
After the park hit it's time to shop, specifically Acne Archives in Nørrebro. Aside from the obvious overspending in Acne make sure to check out Adélie and Urban Room both on Guldbergsgrade along with a handful of other fab boutiques Nørrebro has to offer including a bunch of delish places for a quick local lunch. I recommend, GAO for a bit of welcomed Asian flavour.
After lunch cross the Sørene for a little more shopping in Kobenhavn K, a district with more international shops like Ganni and Stella McCartney but also a few vintage gems, like Times Up Vintage. By 4pm you'll be ready for an afternoon pick-me-up and do where better than Ruby. In the oldest part of town, Ruby is in an townhouse, built around 1740 with updated art deco vibes that faces parliament buildings and Thorvaldsens museum. Getting a seat by the window so you can experience the view is a must.
For dinner head Kødbyen, the meatpacking district of Copenhagen that now houses great restaurants and trendy nightlife. Put your name down for dinner at Paté Paté, a beautiful restaurant with a wonderful take on traditional danish dishes. Request the bar for a fun experience and chat up the bar staff. Likely a local who has grown up in Copenhagen and has a lot of insider tips. While you wait for your seat grab some oysters Kødbyens Fiskebar and after dinner check out NOHO for all night dancing in the cellar. Be ready to be in for the longhaul!
Day 2
Field trip to the Louisiana Museum
In front of the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Get up early and catch the train to north to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. I cannot say enough good things about this museum and pictures don't do it justice. You simply have to see if for yourself. It’s located about 1.5 hours North of Copenhagen by train. The museum is in a beautiful mid century home built into the rolling landscape that looks over the sea. The entire property is a museum including the grounds which house an epic sculpture garden. In true midcentury style, every last detail is thoughtfully designed. The interior is complete with original fixtures and modern design principals of glass, wood and open spaces that bring nature in. Then there’s the café which takes museum dining to a new level; a beautiful picture of people enjoying fresh cheese and meats, dill soup, shrimp salad with asparagus and a glass of chilled white wine while overlooking the massive Calder resting on the horizon. It's truly next level museum madness. Last but definitely not least, the gift shop could be deserving of a trip all on its own. Plan to spend the entire day here enjoying ever last minute.
Once back to the city, pop over to Lidkoeb, for a 3 story cocktail bar experience. It's a bit hard to find but worth the hunt. If you're lucky there may even be live Jazz.
Day 3
Biking the old and new city
Grab a low key breakfast of hard boiled eggs and rye at Bang & Jensen Café before biking the waterfront to Nyhavn. On your way make sure to pop into Dansk Made for Rooms, a Danish design house that must be seen and paid respect in while in Copenhagen.
Nyhavn, though overpriced and touristy, is the epitome of Copenhagen history. Sitting here and having soup at one of the many cafés here is a must. But before you settle in take a ride across Inderhavnsbroen, a bicycle bridge that connects the Nyhavn district with the islands and Christianshavn neighborhood. It's a beautiful example of functional design and if you're lucky you may even experience the opening of the bridge to allow a ship to pass. It's a pretty impressive modern engineering experience of form and function. From the island side you'll have an amazing view of the Skuespilhuset, the Royal Danish Playhouse against the traditional backdrop of Copenhagen architecture. Another example of harmonious design when modern meets traditional.
After your morning of architectural appreciation, head to SMK, National Gallery of Denmark on Østre Anlæg Park for a cultural afternoon. An excellent collection of Danish and Nordic art as well as an expansive collection of Modern Art through the history of the 20th century.
Dinner this evening should be at Høst , danish for harvest. It's the perfect Nordic inspired cuisine focusing on seasonal dishes to cap off your Danish adventure.
Happy hunting!
All images via She The Huntress
